The four basic "causes" of acne
Acne is a disease of the sebaceous hair
follicle. Each follicle contains a tiny hair and multilobed sebaceous glands.
Sebaceous glands get their name from the oily substance they produce - sebum. Under normal circumstances, sebum travels up
the hair follicle and out to the skin's surface. However, in acne, sebum is trapped within
the follicle. Acne develops on those areas of the skin where sebaceous glands are most
numerous: the face, scalp, neck, chest, back, and upper arms and shoulders. The acne
lesions we know as blackheads are called "comedones"
(singular: comedo). Red, swollen, pus-filled
lesions are called papules, nodules, and pustules.
Four basic factors, work together for the development of
comedones:
Each of these factors is discussed in more detail below.
Hormones
(androgens)
Acne usually begins when the body starts to produce the hormones called androgens. When androgen production goes
into high gear - about age 11 to 14 years - acne also goes into high gear. Androgens cause
the sebaceous gland to enlarge, and this is normal. People who develop acne have sebaceous
glands that are over-stimulated by androgens. Young women tend to have acne flare-ups that
coincide with the hormonal changes associated with their menstrual cycle. These changes
affect the sensitivity of their sebaceous glands to androgens.
Increased
sebum production
After the sebaceous gland is stimulated by androgens, it
produces more sebum. The oily sebum accumulate in the follicle, and travels up the hair
shaft to the surface of the skin. As it travels up the hair shaft it also mixes with
normal skin bacteria and dead skin cells that have been shed from the lining of the
follicle.
The greater the sebum production, the greater the
likelihood that the hair follicle will become clogged and result in
comedones.
Changes
inside the follicle
As androgen production increases and sebaceous glands
enlarge, the inner lining of skin in the hair follicle also changes. Normally, dead cells
inside the follicle shed gradually and get expelled onto the surface. However, during
puberty these cells are shed more rapidly and tend to stick together. When they mix with
sebum, they can clog the follicle--the cells and sebum form a plug in the follicle.
Bacteria
The clogged follicle becomes a breeding ground for
bacteria. One type of bacteria specifically involved is Propionibacterium acnes or
P. acnes for short. P.
acnes ingests sebum and is a normal resident on skin even in people who don't have
acne. However, when the sebaceous gland gets clogged, and sebum builds up inside the
follicle, P. acnes multiplies rapidly. Chemicals produced by the bacteria can cause
inflammation in the the follicle and surrounding skin.
Putting it all together...
Clogged follicles develop into two types of acne breakout:
(1) comedones, or non-inflamed 'blackheads', or
(2) inflamed lesions defined as papules, pustules, and nodules.
The genetic connection
While virtually everyone gets acne to some degree, some
people are born with a predisposition to certain types of acne. There seem to be
similarities in acne among family members regarding patterns of acne lesions, duration of
acne, severity and so on. Acne occurs in all races, but there are ethnic variations that
suggest genetic influences; Caucasian Americans, for instance, tend to be more affected
than African Americans or people of Asian heritage. From a scientific standpoint, not much
is known yet about the specific genetics involved in acne, but there seems to be a
connection.
If a teenager's parents or older siblings have had severe
acne, that teenager is likely to have severe acne, too. It is all the more critical for
such teenagers to consider seeing a dermatologist before the acne becomes severe.
Acne from cosmetics
Comedones may be caused by certain cosmetics and toiletries
containing ingredients that can clog pores. Such products, which include makeup,
foundations, night creams and moisturizers, are called comedogenic. People should look for
"noncomedogenic" cosmetics
and toiletries.
Cosmetic acne is usually minor and usually does not cause
scarring. It: can be persistent, however, sometimes lasting for decades. Aggravating the
problem, some young women try to cover up the pimples with even more makeup. Plus, normal
teenage acne can occur at the same time.
Acne with environmental causes
Acne may also be due to (or aggravated by) contact with a
large variety of comedogenic substances. For example, the airborne grease in a fast food
restaurant can be comedogenic, as can motor oil, which someone may be exposed to regularly
at a job.
In fact, anything that can irritate acne-prone areas of the
skin may make acne worse, including rubbing and friction from clothing, hair, sporting
equipment and so on. Your dermatologist can best identify and treat these types of acne.
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